It was a fine
Sunday morning in early summer 1865. James Hunt opened the door of his new home
and looked south over the road and the downward sloping land towards the lake.
He gave a sigh of contentment and muttered a brief prayer of thanks in Irish to
the mother of God.
It had been
a long, hard journey to this point of his life, but he could now allow himself
a feeling of achievement that he had finally managed to be standing here this
morning, on his own land in the townland of Smutternagh, on the shores of Lough
Key, in the county
Roscommon. Though the
term “his own land” was a relative one; the land belonged to the King-Harmon
family as did all the land in Smutternagh and thousands of acres more all
around Boyle. Indeed, as far as his own family memories extended back, through
the hard years scratching a living from a barely usable Curlew mountain
allotment, back to the fabled days of comfort on good land in the townland of
Eastersnow on the Plains of Boyle up to their catastrophic eviction in the
1830s, the landlords had always been the King family – whose place in the
Anglo-Irish stratosphere had been achieved with the noble title of Lorton.
As his gaze
moved across the green wooded islands on the lake, over to Rockingham House,
the residence of the King-Harmons, he reflected that beyond lay the Plains of
Boyle – and Eastersnow. He had been born there, but was only a little boy when
Lord Lorton had decided that the holdings there were too small for modern
progressive farming. He had evicted the smallholders, including James’ father
and his family, to restructure his lands there into bigger tenancies, suitable
for large-scale cattle farming. The growing cities of industrial England had an
insatiable appetite for beef, and prosperous cattle-tending tenants could pay
better and more certain rents.
His father,
Thomas, had never really got over it. On his deathbed, he urged his sons to do
everything possible to regain the family holding there. It was their
birthright, he always claimed, taken from them by the heartlessness of English
landlords. The tribulations of the Hunt family mirrored the tribulations of all
the Gael, dispossessed and persecuted in their own country by a foreign invader.
Lord Lorton
doubtlessly would have seen it differently. Had he not accepted responsibility
for the evicted tenants and given them an alternative, land reclaimed from the
mountain in the townland of Cornameelta? Thomas Hunt could only laugh bitterly
– an exchange of land valued at 18 shillings an acre for land valued at 3 shillings
an acre! Land where you could barely grow a few potatoes, good for nothing else
except a few scrawny sheep and cattle, who could hardly find enough grazing
there to put meat on their bones.
A blessing
in disguise perhaps; scratching a living from the side of the mountain in
Cornameelta, relying on scrawny sheep and cattle, may have helped the Hunts
avoid the fate of millions of Irish who had been living on tiny tenancies and
relying completely on potatoes for their sustenance. When the blight came,
three years running in the 1840s, the whole family survived where a million
others died.
James
looked over the fields which were now his and considered the strange connection
his family had with them. For, though his tenancy was new, he had memories of
this farm from his childhood; after they had been evicted from their holding in
Eastersnow, the family had spent a brief period here, sharing the land with a
family called Brady. But the Bradys had sucked up to the land agent and had
been awarded tenure while the Hunts had to move on.
You couldn’t
trust the Bradys, his father had always said. During the Famine years, a Brady
had led a group of desperate hungry thieves from Smutternagh to steal a
bullock from the Hunts, drive it back here and slaughter it for food. It couldn’t
be proved, of course, but the Bradys knew that the Hunts had a way with cattle
and that it would be relatively easy to rob a Hunt animal from the sprawling
common mountainside at Cornameelta.
Well, the
Bradys were gone now, along with the Monaghans who had lived in the other half
of the house at the door of which he was standing. One of the Monaghans, who
had given up their tenancy earlier in favour of shopkeeping in Sligo, had told him that Brady had lost his taste for
farming and wanted to emigrate. James had visited him, here in this house, and
had agreed to pay the passage for the Brady family from Sligo to Scotland thus
vacating the farm.
Just one
expense among many involved in securing this new future for himself and the
family he would found. Between the passage for the Bradys, the backhander paid
to Lord Lorton’s land agent, the first year’s rent, the cost of the stock which
would be the basic business of the farm, and even furniture (for the Bradys had
left nothing in the house but one fire-iron), he reckoned the whole venture
would finish up costing him ₤100, everything he had managed to scratch together
over the previous fifteen years.
For, as a
young man, in the years immediately after the Great Hunger, James had decided
to try to earn his living by putting the one skill he had to practical use, his
knowledge of cattle. Not that he had much choice. His brother Thomas would take
over the paltry tenancy on the Cornameelta mountain; James was left with the
option of either emigrating or trying to survive somehow in the collective
trauma which was post-famine Ireland.
He’d started to trade in cattle, travelling all over the north Connacht
counties, Roscommon and Sligo, Leitrim and Mayo, buying store cattle from
individual farmers or at small fairs and driving them to the port of Sligo, or
Derry, or even occasionally all the way to Dublin, to sell them at a profit for
export to the industrial cities of Britain.
Drovers
they were called in Ireland,
those men who earned a living buying and selling cattle. They were the original
cowboys, though the Irish version didn’t ride horses. They walked,
painstakingly gathering their herds and driving them along the narrow winding
roads towards the larger fairs, sleeping in barns, or under hedges, walking
behind the cattle, whacking them occasionally on the withers with sally rods to
keep them under control and moving in the right direction.
In
following this profession, James was living and acting in a way which went back
thousands of years in Irish history. At the end of the 12th Century,
Giraldus Cambrensis distainfully described the native Gaels’ reliance on cattle
in his Topographica Hibernica, and the Táin Bó Cúailnge,
the great Irish epic, comparable with the Ramayana or the Illiad,
is, in essence, the story of a cattle raid. The story of the attack by the men
of Connacht on Ulster to
steal Cooley’s bull, the single-handed defence of Ulster by the young hero,
Cuchullain, and all the other tales and destinies decribed in the saga, begins
with Queen Maeve’s jealousy of the fine bull owned by her husband and her
determination to obtain a finer one for herself. The Táin is
traditionally dated as taking place in the first century A.D. Maeve’s capital
was at Cruachan (today’s Rathcroghan) and is less than 20 km as the crow flies
from Eastersnow. If there is an historical core event at the basis of the Táin,
then it is not beyond the bounds of possibility that a distant ancestor of
James Hunt was a member of the raiding party which set out at the behest of
their warrior queen to salvage her pride and honour by stealing a bull owned by
a prosperous farmer in Ulster. Eighteen hundred years later, my
great-grandfather spent around fifteen years of his life doing much the same
thing, though unlike his ancestor (and the Bradys), he paid for the cattle
which came into his possession.
His father’s dream had been a return to
Eastersnow. Given the fact that the small tenancies there had been consolidated
into much larger farms, James realised that he could not achieve this; but Smutternagh
was an acceptable compromise and he was content.
As he stood there, surveying his new domain, a
man came up the road and greeted him. In the way of the customary easy
hospitality then common, James invited him into his new home to share his
breakfast of boiled potatoes and a salted herring. The stranger accepted and
the two ate together. When the meal was over the visitor remarked, “I must be a
very humble man to sit down to breakfast with a new tenant and I married to
Lord Lorton’s daughter.”
While most tenants had little or no contact
with the Anglo-Irish ascendancy living in the big houses, there was of course
one major exception; those who took positions in service. Lord Lorton had
something of a reputation for an appetite for pretty young servant girls, so
the visitor’s comment may well have been more than just an empty boast. If I
had not decided to limit this account, as far as possible, to facts which were diligently
researched by James’ grandson, my late Uncle Séamus, I might be moved to
speculate as to the identity of the visitor, since he was certainly one of the
neighbours. I might begin to wonder about the fact that the son of Odie
McLoughlin (whose farm was a couple of hundred yards up the road from the Hunt
place), Pat, who was born around 1860, was shown special favour by the landlord
and was assisted by him to build the first two-story house in the townland. But
as Pat McLoughlin was my other paternal great-grandfather, I am not going to
continue my thoughts in this direction, which is, after all, nothing more than
pure speculation …
Returning to verifiable facts, James Hunt
ultimately had ten children, of whom six were girls. The five oldest girls all
emigrated to the USA
while in their late teens. None of them ever took a position in service to the
King-Harmon family at Rockingham House on the other side of the lake.
Nearly a hundred and fifty years later, James’
small tenancy of twenty one statute acres now forms the nucleus of a much
larger unit, farmed by my cousin, who has built himself a fine new house beside
the one James Hunt moved into. That small Irish cottage still stands, though it
is no longer inhabited. And while the population of Smutternagh has been
decreasing for nearly a hundred years now, there are still descendants of James
Hunt there. And will be, hopefully, for a long time to come.
Pictures retrieved
from:
I've always wished I'd made a trip to Ireland when I had the opportunity. The pictures here are so very beautiful and the story is a treasure. It's certainly true there was much license taken by the lords and landed gentry on both sides of the Irish Sea. My Grandmother raised a mysterious child from infancy until he was old enough to be sent to Harrow. She knew who the parents were but, to my knowledge, never told anyone - except probably, Grandad.
ReplyDeleteAs usual wonderful writing Francis. I have taken a cottage near Lough Hyne, Cork, for a month in the spring after which I shall drive north to Larne to ferry to Scotland and begin the drive home. En route I must now stop at Smutternagh to try to gather and soak up some of the atmosphere you have essayed to create. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteTouching story into which I almost read you must be descended from the love child of Catherine Cookson! My mind strays easily, as you know. My own Irish connections are not far away - a ship's captain plying trade to and from Iberia (though I think the Terry surname is Portuguese).
ReplyDeleteOh how I enjoyed that story! I know the present generation of this family and this area well. If you have any interest in Irish music google for Ireland West Trad, there's a livestream of music from Dickie Beirne's pub in Eastersnow you might enjoy.
ReplyDeleteMy ancestors lived below Cornameelta in Tawnytaskin, closer to Lough Key. Interestingly enough, we have wondered why they are buried in Estersnow and not in the Boyle Cemetery. I think that one or more of them married some Kevilles from Cornameelta. A relative in Ireland speculated that they once had a tenancy in the Plains of Boyle near Estersnow and were moved out by Lord Lorton. She said she had heard that a Coleman met the Lord (most likely Lord Lorton) and was asked to bow and he said he would bow to no man but to God. At that, they lost their tenancy. When I heard this, I was skeptical but now after reading your account, I think there is some truth within this story. Thank you for your story.
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